From leading award-winning kitchens to cooking over fire in Cornwall, Head Chef Matt Haggath combines the standards of fine dining with Cornwall’s relaxed food culture.
The result is honest, generous cooking that celebrates simple ingredients and the flavour of cooking over fire.We sat down with Matt to talk about fire-led cooking, local produce, great steak and what makes HALWYN different.
From fine dining to fire-led cooking
You’ve worked in high-profile kitchens including the Savoy Grill, how has that shaped the way you cook today?
Working in large kitchens in London and France gave me an incredible work ethic. When you’re working alongside 40 or more chefs in busy services, you have to push yourself every day. It teaches you speed, attention to detail, teamwork and endurance. Those lessons still shape everything I do in the kitchen today.
What attracted you to HALWYN?
HALWYN was a completely blank slate. It gave me the opportunity to build something from the ground up, creating a team, a menu and a reputation from scratch. That’s a very different challenge from taking over an existing kitchen, and it was one I was excited to take on.
How did your time in France influence your cooking?
France has an incredible food culture. There is a genuine respect for ingredients and a passion for cooking from scratch that runs through everyday life. That appreciation for quality ingredients and simple, well-executed cooking has definitely influenced the way I approach food at HALWYN.
Fire-led cooking at HALWYN
What makes cooking over fire so special?
Cooking over fire creates flavours that simply can’t be replicated. I grew up in Cyprus where barbecuing was part of everyday life, and that’s where my love of fire cooking started. There’s something elemental about it. Humans have been cooking this way for thousands of years.
What role do char and caramelisation play in flavour?
That’s where so much of the flavour comes from. Without proper caramelisation, food can taste flat. The skill is creating those deep, smoky, charred flavours without overcooking or burning the food. That’s what makes cooking over fire such a craft.
Why do you think fire cooking resonates so strongly in Cornwall?
Cornwall is rugged, wild and passionate about food. Fire cooking reflects all of those qualities. There’s something honest and authentic about it that feels right at home here.
How do you see the menu evolving?
The menu will always follow the seasons. Some dishes will remain because guests love them, but I enjoy introducing new ideas and flavours. A menu should keep moving and evolving. It keeps things exciting for both the kitchen team and our guests.
What makes you proud at the end of a service?
Good food, happy guests, clean plates, no issues and a team that’s enjoyed working together. That’s a successful service.
From the family farm
HALWYN works closely with family farm Trevowah Herd beef. Why is that important?
Aside from the quality of the beef itself, it’s special because we can literally see where it comes from. Supporting local farmers is incredibly important, particularly in challenging times. When you can source exceptional ingredients from right on your doorstep, that’s something worth celebrating.
What makes a great steak?
It starts with great beef, but it also comes down to understanding the cut, the cooking process and how to bring out the best flavour through fire. The Josper charcoal oven gives steaks a distinctive smoky character that’s difficult to achieve any other way.
What does “proper cuts” mean to you?
I’m a big believer in using as much of the animal as possible, not just the premium cuts. Some of the most flavourful dishes come from lesser-known cuts when they’re treated with care and cooked properly.
What’s the most underrated cut of beef?
Beef cheeks. They’re relatively inexpensive, but when cooked correctly they’re packed with flavour and incredibly tender.
If someone is searching for the best steak restaurant in North Cornwall, why should they visit HALWYN?
Because we’re passionate about great beef, great cooking and cooking over fire. That’s at the heart of what we do.
For Matt, great food doesn’t need to be complicated. It starts with quality ingredients, careful cooking and a genuine respect for where food comes from.
